Inside Zac Posen’s Line For Target

When the news broke this morning of Zac Posen’s appointment as the next GO International designer for Target, I can’t say I was surprised. Here’s a peek inside the making of this collection, as told to me by someone close to the project.

• Target hired manufacturing behemoth Li & Fung to design and produce the collection.
• The collection was created this fall. While the announcement is only happening now, it’s been completed since October.
• This isn’t too shocking, but Zac Posen didn’t actually design the collection. While he most certainly had input on what the pieces looked like, as well as final say, a team of designers at Li & Fung are the ones who put it together.

7 Real Cyber Monday Deals

Cyber Monday reminds me of those fake holidays invented by the card companies: It grabs your attention, but at the same time, you know there’s something unauthentic about the whole thing. But while Cyber Monday may be a non-existent phenomenon dreamed up by greedy marketers eager to drive more shoppers online, there’s no denying that some decent bargains emerge from the rubble. Here are seven sales worth checking out:

Blue Nile
The diamond expert is offering free overnight shipping for purchases made today. That means nearly all orders–including engraved items–will ship this afternoon and arrive tomorrow morning.

Oak
This New York mini-chain of boutiques sells a mix of conceptual, contemporary and independent brands, including Comme des Garçons, Kain and Complex Geometries. Luckily for those outside of the tri-state area, it’s also offering a 20% discount on clothing and shoes–both in-store and online–through the end of the day today.

Amazon
The king of online retailers offers unbeatable prices year-round, and its special Cyber Monday deals exceed expectations. Along with the typical markdowns on electronics and video games, the site is offering an extra 40% off selected jewelry, 30% women’s boots and 20% off denim purchases of $100 or more.

Red Stamp
I love stationery but  I don’t love the steep prices. (Even if it is letterpressed.) That’s why Minneapolis-based paper store Red Stamp’s deal is so worthwhile, especially for those searching for the perfect holiday cards. Through the end of the day today, customers receive a 15% discount on all orders as well as $1 shipping for orders $70 or less. (Orders of $70 or more ship free.) Personal favorites include Elum’s Birch Tree and Berries and Egg Press’s Gang of Gnomes.

Shopbop
Despite the fact that Shopbop’s goofy models and kind of slutty styling turns me off big time, the contemporary fashion site’s unmissable sales keep me coming back. (In the past I’ve found Brian Reyes dresses and Proenza Schouler shoes discounted by 70%.) It’s offering $50 off an order of $300 or more, $100 off $500 or more, $150 off $700 and $250 off $1,000 through the end of today. Enter the code GIFT4U at checkout to benefit.

Nike
Along with 25% off all clearance through December 1, Nike is offering free shipping on all orders through December 22.  If you’re into the personalized kicks, this is the time to pounce.

Nordstrom
This upscale department store is already known for its excellent customer service online and off, so adding free shipping on purchases of $100 or more through December 20 only sweetens the deal. What’s more, the site is already offering up to 50% off in-season items like Burberry boots, Valentino handbags and 3.1 Phillip Lim silk dresses.

Forget About Black Friday, Go Shopping At The Supermarket

No, not that supermarket. I’m talking about Supermarkethq.com, an Etsy-esque site that features a well-curated selection of items, from scratch-and-sniff holiday cards to gorgeous felt window panels. Etsy’s great, but I hate having to sift through all of the really horrible stuff; it can take hours. This proprietors behind Supermarket select which artists/designers are allowed to sell on the site. That means the wretched products that wind up on Etsy–crocheted b are avoided. Must thank NY Mag’s fabulous blog The Cut for introducing me to Supermarket. Happy Thanksgiving!

‘Tis The Season For… Engagement Rings???

Flat screen TVs. Netbook computers. Zhu Zhu Pets. These are the items I imagine shoppers searching frantically for in the days prior to Thanksgiving, and more importantly, Black Friday. And while I may be right, there’s another item that sees a noticeable bump in interest come late November, and that’s the engagement ring.

Bill Tancer, the general manager over at Hitwise, a firm that follows search and advertising trends on the Internet, says that Web searches for engagement rings peak around November 24 each year. These Google charts confirm his findings.

Here’s the Google traffic for the search term “engagement rings” for 2006, when Tancer discovered the pattern:

Here it is for 2008:

And for 2009:

Indeed, 1 out of 5 engagements happen in December, according to statistics provided by online jeweler Blue Nile. So it’s no surprise that when I met with its CEO Diane Irvine and corporate communications director John Baird last week, they confirmed that this is the company’s busiest quarter for both advertising and sales. Some 70% of Blue Nile’s sales are generated by diamond rings, primarily used for engagements or anniversaries.

There’s also no doubt that this year, many on the hunt are searching for more affordable alternatives. According to Google Trends, searches for “silver engagement rings” have increased significantly since September 2009. The good news is, company’s like Blue Nile now offer “build your own ring” services that allow future fiancés to find the perfect ring at a manageable price.

But what might be the most telling bit of information culled from this exercise is that 60% of visitors in search of engagement rings on jewelry sites during the last four weeks were women, not men, according to Hitwise. So while men may be making most of the purchases, we can infer that more women may have a say in what their engagement ring looks like that we–at least I–assumed. Here’s Tancer’s graph of the data:

It’s So Hard To Say Goodbye: The JCPenney Catalog

After 46 years in print, the JCPenney fall/winter catalog is being discontinued after this holiday season. At its peak in 1999, the Big Book generated $4 billion in sales. While I find it unlikely you’ve peeked inside the Big Book–or any of JCPenney’s catalogs–in quite some time, I’ve rounded up some of my favorite images from the past for nostalgia’s sake.

Fashion Finally Ups The E-Commerce Ante

The fashion industry is finally thinking outside the box when it comes to e-commerce. While luxury brands still lag behind, nontraditional retailers–including Lucky magazine and street style Web site Weardrobe.com–are setting up interactive shopping features that go a step beyond typical e-tailing.

Lucky Shopping, which launched today, features over 450 brands and 860,000 unique products. But what differentiates the site is its subjective angle: The mag’s editors handpick their favorite items which are then highlighted, bringing the full-on Lucky experience to life.

Anyone who reads the magazine knows that it’s essentially a curated catalog. And now, instead of sifting through its pages, tagging the items you like and maybe searching for them online or in stores, it can all happen in a couple of clicks.

Let’s hope this venture attracts more people to Luckymag.com, which averaged 317,00 unique users per month in the year ending October 2009, according to traffic-tracking firm Compete.com. (Glamour.com, comparatively, racked up 1.5 million uniques per month during the same period.)

The street style purveyors over at Weardrobe.com are taking an equally unique approach, allowing users to purchase styles similar to what cool kids on the street are wearing. For example, an image of a woman donning a dove grey wool belted coat and purple pumps allows you to “shop the look,” offering comparable options from Calvin Klein and Franco Sarto.

I predict that there will be even more innovative approaches to fashion e-commerce popping up in the near future. Because frankly, if you love fashion, you probably love to shop, too. I look forward to seeing how seamless of an experience these nouveau retailers can create.

A Trunk Show For The Rest Of Us

The scene at Thistle & Clovers Wednesday evening trunk show.

When the phrase “trunk show” works its way into a headline, it usually has to do with a shopping event at a high-end department store, featuring the current collection of a designer I can’t afford and involving ladies who lunch, not ladies who make their lunch.

That wasn’t the case at Brooklyn’s Thistle & Clover boutique last night, where the fall collections of shoe brand Marais USA and jewelry label Lauren Wimmer were celebrated with a shopping party. (The store typically carries select items from both labels.) I was thrilled to stop by and do a little reporting–and yes, shopping!–as Marais is my favorite shoe collection of the moment.

The scene was similar to your typical trunk show–cocktails, chatter–but there were no pushy sales girls making things awkward. The designers of both brands walked around assisting customers. Marais co-designer Haley Boyd helped me find the right size oxford and even took a photo of me trying them on–very sweet.

My gift with purchase.

Thistle & Clover co-owner Rand Niederhoffer explained to me that these types of events–regardless of how much money they make–are a nice way to get people in the neighborhood together. Becoming a destination is crucial to a retailer’s success.

However, I have no doubt Thistle & Clover was financially triumphant last evening. And it’s not just because the product was fantastic.

The thing I love most about shopping in neighborhood boutiques like this one is that the owners believe in the product. Niederhoffer and her partner Camilla Gale buy emerging designers, many of whom are based in Brooklyn. These are the duo’s friends and contemporaries. When there is so much care and attention put into the selection, it’s hard not to enjoy the shopping experience.

My adorable kicks from Marais.

Along with my purchase–a pair of charming saddle shoe-inspired sneakers from Marais–I received an elephant pin and a small bouquet of flowers from local florist Stem. Exceedingly thoughtful–it’s those kinds of gestures that create loyal customers.

Holiday Shoppers Declare: Screw Gifts. We’d Rather Eat, Drink And Be Merry!

‘Tis the season for market research surveys. The latest spending report from Los Angeles-based firm IBISWorld suggests that while consumers will spend less on presents this year, they’ll be indulging in decadent goodies–i.e., food and drink–as a coping mechanism.

“The recession has caused people to go back to family values as opposed to simply buying presents,” said Toon van Beeck (real name, I swear), a senior analyst with IBISWorld.  “Consumers just don’t have the money to fork out on unnecessary gifts and luxuries such as traveling. Instead they’ll cherish time spent with close family and friends.”

This year, Thanksgiving sales are expected to reach $29.9 billion, a 3% increase from 2008. About 92% of that money will be spent on food and drinks alone. Here’s a chart from IBISWorld projecting Christmas expenditures:

The M’Obama Endorsement And Its Effect On Sales

Obama in Theallet.

On Monday, designer Sophie Theallet was named winner of the 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, awarded annually to a talented designer ready to take his or her brand to the next level. Along with a year’s worth of mentoring from a top CFDA member, the winner receives $200,000.

Since then, much as been said of Michelle Obama’s affinity for Theallet. The first lady often wore the designer’s cotton color block dresses while vacationing on Martha’s Vineyard this summer. But did Obama’s thumbs-up give Theallet an edge over the other CFDA nominees, including runners-up Monique Pean and Patrik Ervell? Of that, I’m not so sure.

Of course, it can only be a good thing to have this first lady in particular wearing your clothes. At least from a marketing standpoint. However, I am more interested in whether or not a M’Obama endorsement produces tangible (read: financial) results. I’ve attempted to break down her effect, brand by brand.

Designer/Brand: Maria Pinto
What She Wore: Several of the Chicago-based designer’s classic shift dresses in bold colors such as blue and lavender.
Results: While Pinto’s name has all-but disappeared from the press since Obama has brought higher profile designers into the mix, the designer has still been able to capitalize on Obama’s devotion. She opened her first store in Chicago’s West Loop in August 2008.

Designer/Brand: Zero+Maria Cornejo
What She Wore: A purple jacket worn on the inaugural weekend train ride, as well as a printed black and white suit that she’s mixed and matched on several occasions.
Results: Cornejo has always been a favorite amongst a certain set of New Yorkers and Parisians because of her unique draping and trend-less styles. But it’s safe to say that the Brooklyn-based designer was an unknown name in most U.S. households pre-Obama. While Cornejo’s popularity has undoubtedly increased, she’s also expanded her offerings. Just this week, the designer announced she would launch a menswear collection for spring.

Designer/Brand: J.Crew
What She Wore: A yellow cardigan and skirt on The Tonight Show with Jay Leno in October 2008, as well as other pieces mixed into her overall wardrobe.
Results: The specialty retailer saw a 6% year-over-year sales increase to $357.6 million in the second quarter of this year. J.Crew has said that most of the pieces Obama has worn have sold out, but we’re not so sure the specialty retailer can give Obama all the credit. The brand, led by CEO Mickey Drexler, is simply very strong, with its defined point of view and spot-on advertising. (J.Crew has been smart to keep its catalog. People rarely buy from it anymore, but are inspired by its styling.)

An unbelievable Alaia dress.

Designer/Brand: Azzedine Alaia
What She Wore: A black dress, worn to the NATO concert in Baden-Baden, Germany, and a belt, worn on several occasions.
Results: French designer Azzedine Alaia–deemed the last great couturier by many–has definitely seen an increase in name recognition in the U.S. because of Obama. In France, he was already the most important designer in the world.

Designer/Brand: Jason Wu
What She Wore: A white gown at the Inaugural Ball and a few day dresses.
Results: Wu was a virtual unknown before Obama donned his white beaded gown at the Inaugural Ball. Today, he’s one of the most-talked about designers in New York. But while his business is growing, it’s still small. The designer has said that US sales would reach just $4 million in 2009. (For context: Peer Phillip Lim, whose label has been around since 2005, will make close in $50 million in sales for 2009.)

Designer/Brand: Isabel Toledo
What She Wore: A made-to-order beaded pistachio dress and topcoat worn on Inauguration Day.
Results: Beloved by the fashion elite but unable to drive commercial success in U.S., there is no evidence–as of yet, at least–that Toledo’s business has changed dramatically since Obama wore her dress and top coat to the inauguration. However, Toledo has never been the kind of designer whose looking to achieve name recognition.

Designer/Brand: Moschino
What She Wore: Several bow blouses and skirt suits.
Results: In 2009, U.S. sales will only make up 10% of the Italian brand’s overall business. However, Washington Post writer Robin Givhan’s recent piece on Moschino and the first lady may draw more attention to the brand in 2010.

Designer/Brand: Target
What She Wore: A few sundresses while on holiday.
Results: While it’s hard to believe that Obama’s casual Target buys have bumped up revenue or profit–the big box’s 3rd quarter sales were up 1.4% from the same time last year, while earnings were up by 18.6% to $436 million–some of its fashion collaborations, including those with Tracy Feith and Thakoon, have coincided nicely with her tastes.

Looking lovely in a winter white Talbots dress.

Designer/Brand: Talbots
What She Wore: At a White House event, she donned a winter white double-faced wool sheath with a sweetheart neckline. She also wore the preppy brand on the cover of Essence magazine.
Results: Obama’s choice to wear Talbot’s coincides with the company’s image overhaul, which includes a more modern approach to classics–brighter colors, slimmer fits–as well as a New York store opening this December.

Designer/Brand: Thakoon
What She Wore: A floral dress at the Democratic National Convention in August 2008.
Results: Scored a collection for Target shortly after this; it debuted December 28, 2008. While it’s rumored designers don’t actually make that much money from these collections (no more than $200,000, I’ve been told) they still get a level of exposure never available before to a high-end brand.

Designer/Brand: Tracy Feith
What She Wore: Several casual dresses–Feith is known for his surf-inspired attire.
Results: Feith’s collection coincided with Obama wearing his pricier pieces. There’s no doubt he received more attention for the media while promoting the Target collection because of his Obama connection.

Designer/Brand: Moises de la Renta
What She Wore: A red wool dress with patent red belt.
Results: Who is Moises de la Renta? He’s Oscar’s son, who was almost entirely unknown before Obama wore this piece. More than bringing his name to the forefront of fashion, Obama’s choice was a bit of an undercut to the elder de la Renta, who had criticized the first lady for not wearing his clothes.

Designer/Brand: Sophie Theallet
What She Wore: Two or three cotton dresses with colorful rows of satin ribbon at the hem.
Results: While the French designer’s skill is undeniable, some have connected her $200,000 CFDA prize to Obama’s endorsement. Theallet plans on hiring additional staff with the money, according to WWD.

Glamorous yet professional in Narciso Rodriguez.

Designer/Brand: Narciso Rodriguez
What She Wore: A black and red dress on the night of the election; several suits thereafter.
Results: Rodriguez has said that, along with international name recognition, he’s also been able to expand his business. This fall, he’s collaborating on an affordable line with eBay.

Designer/Brand: White House/Black Market
What She Wore: A dress on The View.
Results: The company says that the dress sold out within days. Since then, the staid retailer has upped its fashion credibility with sleek holiday advertising.

Required Reading: Luxirare.com

There are thousands of style-oriented blogs out there, and I think we can all agree most are crap. Each week in this space, I’m going to highlight a site I’ve deemed so unmissable that it’s been added to my RSS reader. I religiously scan my reader every morning and at least three more times during the day. If I feel like a site has gone stale, I have no qualms removing it.

However, there’s very little chance Luxirare will be one to dry up. The tag line for this experiment–it can’t just be called a blog–is “Killer clothes and Fine Cuisine,” which gives you a bit of an indication of what it’s about. The author produces photo shoots where she shows off the elBulli-inspired dishes she’s prepared, as well as clothing she’s designed. The image quality is so good it’s almost unnerving. Latest entries include a detailed account of the making of the author’s chain jacket as well as parfaits filled with caviar-like bubbles of fruit. Who Luxirare is doesn’t really matter. The fact that her work speaks volumes without ever revealing her identity is what makes it so compelling.