Ask An Expert: Do Men Really Like To Shop?

Posted: November 13th, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, men's fashion, shopping | Tags: , | No Comments »

Branding the ManRetail strategist Bertrand Pellegrin’s Branding the Man: Why Men Are the Next Frontier in Fashion Retail, released at the end of August 2009, outlines how stores can better cater to a male customer. I’ve always wondered if, in most circumstances, it was the man’s significant other that was doing the shopping for him. However, over the last year or so, I’ve come to realize that many men really do like to shop, just in different ways than women. Pellegrin took time out of his busy schedule to answer a few questions about men’s retail.

The Fashion Beat: I saw the news of the Wilkes Bashford Chapter 11 filing on Monday. [Conn.-based family business Mitchells/Richards/Marshs acquired the company two days later.]  Is it me, or have there been a lot of established, old-fashioned menswear brands going bust lately? Why?

Bertrand Pellegrin: It’s not just menswear [going under], it’s everything except toilet paper and soap. People are buying only what they need, and if they buy clothes it’s going to be stuff at a huge discount and extremely practical. If the recession has taught people anything, it’s to do more with less. And that life isn’t so bad that way. I still believe menswear is an important market that has not been optimized in terms of product, service and experience (My blog explains in-depth what happened at Wilkes Bashford and how discount stores are killing the specialty and luxury boutiques.)

TFB: You wrote an entire book about how men shop. How is it different than it was in 2007?

BP: Men are a work-in-progress. My book isn’t saying that men are a sudden goldmine. The opportunities I’m talking about take time and investment. Even in a down economy, I’m seeing men spend in different ways than they did before; even compared to 2007. Most importantly, they view clothes and appearances differently. They know that dressing well can give you a distinct advantage.

TFB: Some people say that men care more about fashion now than they have ever before. But from a historical point of view, it seems that the only time they didn’t really care about looking nice was the 1990s. Do you think men care about their clothes more now than they did 10, 20,30 years ago?

PB: The truth is, men have always cared about clothes. I believe men are more peacocks than women. At the end of the 1960s, men began to challenge the clothing norms.  In many ways, this was a fantastic liberation and chance to explore new ways of dressing. But then it just got messy. The “casualization” (as I call it) of America has made both men and women look pretty awful and has influenced succeeding generations–their children–to continue with the trend. That’s why it isn’t uncommon to see some young woman going to work in flip flops, a pencil skirt and a North Face fleece jacket. Or a guy wearing dress slacks and the same jacket the girl is wearing.

TFB: How will this holiday season compare with last year in terms of what men are buying? Will they buy more or less?

PB: Any retailer worth its salt knows now that it all comes down to value. They are doing all they can to offer merchandise that is “cheap and cheerful” and won’t break the bank. I think there is some excellent stuff coming out right now. J. Crew is doing an excellent job with their menswear, making it focused on the lifestyle of someone who wears the brand.  And the department stores finally woke up. Their private label brands [including Saks' new upscale collection for men] are giving consumers colorful, quality merchandise that is easy on the wallet. This holiday, consumers in general–and men in particular–will be more willing to buy than last year, but retailers shouldn’t expect a banner year.

TFB: There are a lot of very unique men’s boutiques out there, from Blackbird in Seattle (which now I believe sells women’s stuff, too) to Odin here in New York. Do you think men shop at these stores, or do you think it’s their wives/girlfriends? For example, I love the J.Crew Men’s Shop in Tribeca, but my boyfriend just likes the clothes. He doesn’t care which J.Crew we go to. I, on the other hand, would prefer to buy my Isabel Marant dresses at my local boutique Bird rather than Barneys, simply because it’s a nicer experience.

PB: I do think men are shopping at these places. Not all men, of course. But young moderns, definitely. You have to remember that there is a whole new generation–the Gen Y kids–coming into their own and have no problem shopping for themselves. They do it together even. I see groups of young men now who are shopping together. The great advantage the boutique-style stores have is that their merchandise is highly focussed. Unlike department stores, they don’t have a million messages hitting you at once, and there isn’t a cosmetics department to navigate through. The service is also, in general, much, much better. My guess is, your boyfriend doesn’t mind which J. Crew he goes to, but I bet he doesn’t want to go to Macy’s on a Saturday afternoon.

TFB: You got that right.

Have a question about the fashion or retail industry that you’d like answered? Email me on lauren@tfbeat.com.



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