Ask An Expert: Why Is It So Hard To Find A Pair Of Jeans That Fit? (And More…)

Posted: December 14th, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, denim, men's fashion, shopping | Tags: denim expert, denimhunt.com, denimology.com, Jillian Smith, Mavi, Prps, Rock and Repbulic | 1 Comment »

Jillian Smith is a bit of a Renaissance woman. A graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology, she began her career assisting famed fashion historian Valerie Steele. Since then, she’s worked as a writer for Paper magazine, dabbling in styling along the way. But her biggest role has been as a marketing and public relations consultant for W Hotels, Cotton Incorporated and a gazillion fantastic fashion brands, including Elise Overland, Y3 and Jen Kao.

I’ve been working with Jillian for a few years now, and I have to say, she’s one of the best publicists I know. That probably has to do with the fact that she’s also a writer and a reporter. But it’s mostly because she knows what she’s talking about. Especially when it comes to jeans.

Here, Jillian–as official as a “denim expert” can get–offers us peek inside this every-growing industry.

The Fashion Beat: How did you become a denim expert?
Jillian Smith: Completely by accident! I learned a lot about the technical and manufacturing side while working for Cotton Incorporated. While there I created a blog, DenimHunt.com, and that’s when my knowledge of denim really flourished. When I left Cotton I continued to consult for a number of brands, ranging from Prps to Mavi. I now contribute to Denimology.com.

TFB: I feel like, in some ways, the naughties have been the decade of denim. What were some of the innovations or style introductions that really changed the game, in your opinion?
JS: Though [now it's] completely dated, the trend of excessive embellishment really helped drive up the price of premium denim. Even without embellishment, the price point has stayed quite high in comparison to “designer denim” of decades prior, simply because consumers became accustomed to paying a certain price for certain brands.

The Internet changed the denim game by making jeans accessible to consumers all over the globe. The Web has also kept consumers better informed about trends and, of course, what their favorite celebs were wearing. As gossip rags reached their peak, sites like JustJared and FabSugar began tracking what brands celebrities were endorsing, feeding into the desire to dress like a famous person. Now, personal style blogs are creating the trends (think Jane at Sea of Shoes or Jessica at WhatIWore). They’re the new celeb blog.

What’s more, accessibility has resulted in the availability of a larger variety of styles. In order to keep up with demand, brands are forced to produce not only their basics, but also innovative trend items like “jeggings.”

TFB: Are you surprised that the big denim brands of the early party of this decade–particularly 7 For All Mankind–are still ubiquitous?
JS: What we’re seeing now, especially with the recession, is really the survival of the fittest. The brands that are doing well have a great core product that continues to garner new interest. Rock and Republic has done a great job of maintaining an identity while changing with the times (they’ve introduced a lower-priced line and created a more subtle logo.) Brands like True Religion and Chip and Pepper, while still around, have not adapted to the current retail climate as well as their competitors from the early ’00s. It’s almost like they held onto their identity too closely and did not allow for modifications in branding or styles.

TFB: Personally, I kind of feel like the “I can’t find jeans that fit me” complaint to be a little unbelievable. No matter what size I’ve been I have always been able to find a flattering pair. Why do you think most find it so hard to find jeans that fit?
JS: It has nothing to do with product selection. Rather, most people get frustrated because of expectations of what the jeans will make them look like. Denim brands rely very heavily on marketing, more so than a runway designer who can create an entire mood through a full collection and presentation. Denim brands have to use a particular model and celebrity placement to really communicate what type of woman would be seen in their products. Naturally every woman wants to be 5′11″ and a size 26 or Angelina Jolie, but buying the brand of jeans she wears is not going to make you look like her.

The key to finding the right fit is analyzing your body type. Someone with heavy hips will have a hard time finding any skinny jeans to flatter them, but if they try something like a straight leg cut, they’ll have much better results while still achieving a slim leg silhouette. It’s all about balancing the body. It works with rise length as well–a long torso should try a higher rise to balance out where the body is proportioned by the eye.

The other thing: don’t be afraid of wearing a different size than you’re accustomed to. Again, with everyone wanting to be as thin as possible, women are often discouraged when they think they’re one size and find they’re actually something completely different. The secret: it’s not you! Every brand is different, every style is different, and even every wash and fabrication is different. Always try on a size smaller and larger than you think you are. It’s surprising what actually ends up being the most flattering.

TFB: I know that you consult for a lot of denim companies, but can you name some brands that just continually blow you away? What’s so great about them?
JS: I’m always impressed with Levi’s. They are certainly THE heritage brand, but they do so well at offering products in every price range, for every size, for every age and gender while still maintaining a brand identity. They also do a great job at taking a few risks every season. They had a wonderful plaid for FW09 that really made a nice addition to the line, not to mention their amazing collaborations with people like Robert Geller, Shepard Fairery/OBEY and Damien Hirst.

192 Doves, though a smaller, lesser known brand, has continued to impress me with their ability to adapt with every product run. They really listen to their consumer and if they find the sizing is skewing too large or too small, they really take that into account and change that for future runs. They also offer unique jeans without flashy distressing or applique. [Editor's note: I really like this line, too.]

J Brand has also done a really wonderful job at maintaining an identity and offering more styles as their customer base increases. I really see them as the next Seven because of their emphasis on cut and fit rather than gimmicky embellishment or distressing.

TFB: If someone wants to pay $50 bucks or less for denim, where should they go?
JS: If you’re in New York City, the must stop for jeans is Trash & Vaudeville. As much as I love everyone I work with, you’ll see me at least a four times a week in their trademark skinnies, favored by people like the Ramones, Iggy Pop, and even featured in the pages of Vogue. Plus, you get the added bonus of chatting with my biggest crush, Jimmy Webb. He’s an absolute legend with an incredible collection of stories to share. Best part, they retail at about $50 and come in every color and pattern under the sun. Better yet, you can always catch major deals on the sales racks in the back.

For those not in New York, of course Levi’s. Duh. But surprisingly there’s a wonderful selection on sites like Alloy and Delia’s, which are typically seen as shops for teens and tweens. However, they offer a large variety of styles in a HUGE range of sizes. Alloy for example has inseams ranging from 30″-37″ starting at $30. [Another ed. note: I agree, again!]

If it’s premium denim at a bargain price that you’re after, watch sites like Gilt and ShopBop for sales. It’s not unheard of to find all the top brands in the $50 range.

TFB: This one’s from my boyfriend: “I find button flies uncomfortable and a pain in the ass. Is there a technological reason for button flies still existing? Or is just that some people prefer the look?”
JS: It no longer has a function; it’s just a different style. I think it looks great on women in a cut off denim short. On men, the classic 501 with a button fly maintains a certain Springsteen-cool.

TFB: So many denim brands–Joe’s, True Religion–have reported that sales of men’s jeans continue to increase year-over-year-by double digits, even during the recession. Why do you think that is?
JS: Men’s denim is a wonderful example of keeping it simple. In general there are just a few men’s styles per brand, and the styles offered are much more basic. There might be a few variations on washes, but the cuts don’t really deviate from slim, boot-cut, and full-leg. This keeps manufacturing costs down. (Less design, less complicated patterns, etc.) Men also shop a lot differently than women. They’re not looking for a hot trend jean to wear out with friends. They’re looking for a flattering cut and a wash they like. When they find that, they’ll come back year after year and buy five of the same exact jeans because they know they fit and they know they’ll like them. For instance, I could go buy my dad a pair of jeans today and I know it’ll be exactly what he loves and in the right size. He’s been wearing the same Wrangler’s and Levi’s for 30 years.

TFB: What do you see as the “next big thing” in denim?
JS: Simplicity. Cleaner, darker washes, less distressing, a cleaner back pocket design. Look for more gray tones in the washes.  I think we’ll also see a lot more innovation happen in eco-friendly denim. It’s about more than just organic cottons; the industry has been working hard to cut waste in product, packaging and even dying. We’ll also see denim used in more nontraditional ways, especially combined with leather. Rick Owens FW08 was indicative of where designers will be headed. Alexander Wang also showed this in a denim jacket with leather sleeves for Spring 2009. It’s been seen on everyone from Rihanna to Lindsay Lohan. Elise Overland advanced this trend further for spring 2010 by taking her trademark leathers and piecing them together with denim to create a leather-patched jean.

Got a question about the fashion or retail industry that you’d like answered? Email me on lauren@tfbeat.com.

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