What Macy’s (M) Store Closings Really Mean: More Dead Malls

Posted: January 5th, 2010 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail | Tags: , , , , | No Comments »

deadmallsBrian Sozzi, a crack equity analyst over at Wall Street Strategies, says that while closing five underperfoming stores in 2010 was an easy/smart financial decision for Macy’s, the end of those stores will wreak havoc on the malls that they anchor. See his client note below:

There is more to a retail store closure then a company press release.  In Macy’s (M) announcing five store closures today, it will be leaving malls already hurt by a wave of national chain closures since 2008.  As a result, the exit of Macy’s could cause other leftover anchor tenants to vacate and create a “dead mall” syndrome, where vacancy rates rises above 70%.

Looking at two specific closures in the Macy’s press release, the stores were likely operating at serious losses due to changing demographics of the city where the mall resides.

All in all, the store closures were in cities with unemployment and median income levels significantly worse than state and national averages.  People in these areas shifted what discretionary purchases they were making to better kept/promoted malls or big box stores able to drive low prices on a range of merchandise in a one-stop format.


Emersonmade Proves That It’s Never Too Early To Revive A Trend

Posted: January 4th, 2010 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, fashion, independent designers, style | Tags: , , , , , , , , | No Comments »

emersonmade
When I first received a Facebook message from Emersonmade, a Portsmouth, New Hampshire-based brand specializing in fabric floral pins, I assumed it was another crappy, desperate label trying conjure a bit of press from an “up-and-coming” fashion blog. I might have been right about the push for press, but I was definitely wrong about the concept and quality of the product.

Emersonmade is doing something rebellious with its poppies, roses and dahlias. It’s attempting to revive a trend last taken seriously around 2000, when Sarah Jessica Parker’s Carrie Bradshaw made flowers as ubiquitous as Manolos on Sex and The City. This style was certainly not for everyone–some found the often-garish flowers to be vomit-inducing–but overall, it was seen as a sweet, playful accoutrement. Until it wasn’t.

But while Bradshaw’s flowers were wild, outlandish and above all, exaggerated, Emersonmade’s versions–in beautiful, muted colors like dusty pink and denim blue–are classic, preppy and definitely beautiful. It helps that the two founders, a married couple who recently moved to New Hampshire after spending ten years living in SoHo, are so fresh-faced that they could pass for a pair of J.Crew models. The floral pins of the early Naughts may have been worthy of Elle or Glamour magazine, but pieces from Emersonmade belong in Martha Stewart Weddings, on Design Sponge or maybe even in the Vogue Index.

By the way, Mickey Drexler, if you’re reading this: I would immediately approach Emersonmade regarding a collaboration with J.Crew. Glen Sank’s people over at Anthropologie are surely already on the case.

Full disclosure: Emersonmade sent me a box of floral pins before the holidays. While I haven’t worn one yet, it’s been useful because I was able to make sure the items were solidly constructed. (There is not a stitch out of place and the fabric is anything but flimsy.) Be the first to email me on lauren@tfbeat.com and I’ll send you this gorgeous Big Dandy clutch, which is going to be very difficult to part with!


For Me, Good Customer Service Makes All The Difference

Posted: December 30th, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, marketing, rants, shopping | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments »

customerI started working in retail when I was 15. This first experience was at Toys ‘R’ Us, where I stocked shelves over Christmas break to fund my summer trip to Europe. My last retail job was at age 22, when I was working weekends at the now-closed Bond underwear store off of Carnaby Street in London. (As a broke editorial assistant living in one of the most expensive cities in the world, the easy money made giving up my free time bearable.)

Between those two experiences, I’ve worked at Hallmark, the Gap, a now-shuttered store in Williamsburg called Landing (R.I.P., I still miss you!), and even Victoria’s Secret (although I quit that job one month in as I couldn’t take the pressure of selling people credit cards that they didn’t want). In general, I really loved working retail. I like selling products that I actually believe in. Although I always knew I wanted to be a fashion writer, owning my own shop is still a pipe dream. I think that’s why I was drawn to the business side of fashion in my journalistic endeavors.

Anyway, my point is: I think I have a pretty good handle on what excellent customer service means. And these days, most mass retailers–heck, retailers in general–aren’t cutting it. I’m not saying it’s not hard. Uniqlo, for example, has an excellent product. But the staff at its New York City SoHo store knows jack about what’s available, what’s not, and when certain items will arrive. (A lot of this has to do with the fact that they’re not paid much, which means it’s a transient position.) If you ask for a specific type of denim, they return your inquiry with a blank stare. Of course, I still shop at Uniqlo because I know quite a bit about the company and the product–I can overlook their ignorance. I don’t need them. However, I’m not a “typical” consumer. If my Aunt Barb, an accountant from Pittsburgh, walked into Uniqlo and they weren’t able to help her find jeans that were long enough to accommodate her sky-high legs, she’d simply leave and high-tail it to J.Crew, where the salespeople show real love and appreciation for their workplace and the products their shilling.

Spending the last week on the West Coast got me thinking about the importance of customer service. While I hate it when salespeople are “too friendly,” nothing makes me happier than coming across someone whose passionate about the brands and products he or she is paid to sell. For example, on Boxing Day, my significant other and I popped into a lovely store on Hayes Street in San Francisco called Nida. I immediately got excited because there were plenty of customers, plenty of my favorite brands–Steven Alan, Isabel Marant–and I heard one shop girl say that everything in the store was half off.

“Everything?!” I exclaimed. “Everything!” She responded.

I noticed a herringbone wool belted coat from Isabel Marant that I had spied at Bird back on Smith Street in Brooklyn. A salesperson named Atsushi came over and complemented my choice, asking if I’d like him to put it in a changing room for me. He also picked up a pair of Etoile trousers that he thought I might like. When I tried the jacket on, he helped me “style” it the way Marant did on the runway. Let me be clear: none of this was obtrusive or offensive. I actually enjoyed the subtle attention. And yes, I bought the coat.

I had similar experiences at Minimal on Hayes Street, Maison Reve in Mill Valley and of course, the Apple store on Chestnut. Apple proves customer service can work on the mass market level–you just need to hire employees that are passionate about the product.

Last night, while researching another story, I looked up Chicago boutique Hejfina, run by the lovely Heiji Choy Black. I’d interviewed Heiji for a piece I did at Forbes about two years ago, and I thought she’d be a good fit for this other story. However, I soon found that Hejfina had closed in September. Why? Heiji said that it was mainly because of the economy. But when I looked up Hejfina on Yelp, I found several angry reviews stating that while the clothes were great, the salespeople were cold and offensive. I thought Heiji was a wonderful person when I chatted with her, but I also understood what the Yelpers were saying. The few times I got a chance to enter the store, Heiji was not there and the salespeople were less-than-friendly. I didn’t buy anything. I do wonder if the poor customer service had something to do with Hejfina’s demise.


Decade List: Ten Moments In Fashion That Changed The Business

Posted: December 28th, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, auctions, discount shopping, fashion, fashion acquisitions, lists, luxury goods, online retail, shopping | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments »

Tom Ford
Like every industry, fashion suffered quite a bit in the Naughts, with enough shuttered labels and disgruntled consumers for an aspiring fashionista to throw in her Hermes towel. However, in my opinion, the triumphs outweighed the missteps.

While the democratization of fashion may have feathered some ruffles, it–in the end–helped to establish a stronger, more lucrative industry. Here, in the spirit of those top ten lists that I know you love reading, I’ve named the ten moments over the last ten years I that believe changed the business of fashion. Maybe not forever, but at least for now.

2000: H&M Opens in the US
In high school, I read a lot of British magazines. (Yes, I was a bit of an anglophile, watching Are You Being Served when I didn’t have lacrosse practice after school.) I soon understood that while British women were terribly obsessed with fashion, they were also obsessed with not paying exorbitant amounts of money for said fashion. In the pages of British Vogue I discovered H&M, a Swedish retailer that sold clothes rivaling Target in price and Prada in style. By the time I was interning in New York City at a downtown magazine, H&M had arrived on 5th Avenue.

After work I’d take the N up to Rockefeller Center and spend an hour rifling through racks of asymmetrical blouses, wide-leg trousers and colorful plastic baubles.  H&M went on to change American retail, heralding in the concept of fast fashion–clothing that is made cheaply, stylishly and above all, quickly. Soon enough, European favorites like Zara, Topshop and Mango were also infiltrating US shores, leaving All-American basic labels like Gap and Abercrombie & Fitch in the dust.

2001: Vente Privee Launches
Remember life before Gilt Groupe? If you responded by saying “not really,” you’ve got to thank its predecessor, the France-based Vente Privee. You all know the story: Company launches exclusive online sample sales, reports $800 million in revenue in 2008. A decade later, the private sale is the hottest retail model around.

2001: PPR Wins Gucci
After an epic battle between billionaire Bernard Arnault of Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) and billionaire Francois Pinnault of PPR, the latter finally gained control of the Gucci Group, which includes Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent and more. As PPR moved from discount retail into the world of high luxury, it was obvious to designers that being a part of a big conglomerate like LVMH, PPR or Richemont was a way to build a brand without sacrificing design integrity. The corporate infrastructure of these companies helped brands like Balenciaga, Stella McCartney and Edun to increase profits through fragrance, accessories and other well-thought-out licensing deals.

2003: Target Signs Isaac Mizrahi
When Target brought him on to design a women’s fashion collection in 2003, Isaac Mizrahi was nothing more than a 1990s flash in the pan, better known for his documentary Unzipped and a short-lived talk show than beautiful preppy-glam clothing. Yet women couldn’t get enough of what Mizrahi offered at Target: Shiny shift dresses, polka dot blouses and pointy flats. By 2005, the cheap-chic collection garnered $500 million in sales for Target. Mizrahi has since moved onto Liz Claiborne, but his work at Target made it okay for high-end designers to collaborate with low-end retailers.

2004: Rachel Zoe Becomes a Household Name
While celebrity stylists have been around for decades, it was the Naughts that made them rich and independently famous. When Rachel Zoe transformed train wreck Nicole Richie into a chic hippie, she also made big sunglasses, tiered prairie dresses and honey-highlighted hair the look du jour. Today, stylists command thousands of dollars per day for their services, and more and more young women are clamoring to follow in their footsteps.

2005: LVMH Sells Lacroix, Proving that Fashion is More About Commerce than Art
After standing by his money-sucking side for nearly 20 years, LVMH exec Arnault finally sold off Christian Lacroix’s failing fashion business to Florida-based investment company Fallic Group for a measly 2 million euros. We all know how the story ended: Fallic was unable to revive the brand, which made beautiful six-figure couture dresses but could not connect with a consumer at the fragrance, accessory and ready-to-wear levels. It was reduced to a licensing operation at the end of 2009. As sad as it is that Lacroix is not making his beautiful dresses, his struggles serve as an example for the rest of the fashion industry. The lesson: If you want to stay small, stay small, but if you want to make a lot of money, you’ve got to play by retail’s rules. Design may be an art, but fashion is a business.

Jil Sander and Others Lose the Rights to Their Own Names
Another indication that fashion is serious stuff: After disagreements with their corporate backers, designers like Jil Sander, Helmut Lang and Camilla Staerk have lost the rights to their name brands, which are also their given names. Jil Sander returned with +J for Uniqlo, Lang stopped designing altogether to do fine art and Staerk now designs under her surname.

Versace, Ferragamo and Prada Hint At–But Don’t Go Through With–IPOs
From whispers at Salvatore Ferragamo and Versace in 2006 to Tommy Hilfiger, and Prada’s de-listing–then hopes of re-listing–at several points throughout the decade, many fashion companies sought out public funds, but for one reason or another, were not able to actually attain them. Of course, the 2008 crash made raising money even more difficult. Yet Hilfiger, Versace and Prada still haven’t ruled out public offerings. The Teens may just be the decade of fashion IPOs.

2005: LVMH Starts Suing the Heck out of Copyright Infringees
From eBay to Wal-Mart to Bad Boy Records, LVMH crusaded against counterfeit handbags and copyright infringements in the last half of this decade. The lawsuits resulted in an industry-wide debate over what could-and couldn’t-be copied. Intellectual property lawyers prayed to the Louis Vuitton gods each day, thanking them for making their profession more lucrative than ever.

2006: Tom Ford Proves You Can Still Build A Luxury Brand From (Almost) Scratch
After years of conglomerates buying the rights to old fashion houses and hiring the Next Big Designer to revive the brand, Tom Ford did something radical. He broke away from Gucci (where he had played the corporate fashion game, making both said brand and YSL financially viable) and launched a label under his own moniker. Tom Ford currently consists of fragrance–a partnership with Estee Lauder–men’s suiting, shirts, shoes, sunglasses and a few discreet shops that keep customer’s measurements on file for bespoke services. Next step? Women’s wear. Could Ford be THE brand of the Teens? I sure think so.


What Really Happened At Phi?

Posted: December 22nd, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, fashion, luxury goods, marketing | Tags: , , , , , | 3 Comments »

phi fw09

Phi, a much-hyped fashion label based in New York and backed by Susan Dell (yes, wife of Dell computer founder Michael Dell), announced yesterday that it was closing its doors due to recessionary woes.

I’m sure the recession had something to do with Phi’s shuttering, but I can’t help but question the real motivation behind this closure. How could a brand with so much hype and positive press fail during what seemed like its pinnacle?  (It was beloved by the folks at Vogue and also well-dressed socialites like Vanessa Traina and Dree Hemingway.)

In the end, Phi is pure proof that hype–and great press–doesn’t always result in sales. As a source familiar with the situation told me this morning, “It was just too niche. Great design, very hip and cool. But it appealed to a very limited audience.”

The source went on to say that Susan Dell was still pouring quite a bit of money into the company; she didn’t want to fund it any more.

What differentiates Phi from a similarly-styled–but infinitely more successful–brand like Alexander Wang? Momentum. Wang burst onto the scene in 2007 and quickly became a commercial hit. Phi, on the other hand, launched in 2003 and only began attracting substantial attention from the consumer press over the past two years. In fashion, like any other business, success has a lot to do with timing.


Ben Sherman Exits Women’s Wear: Sad For Company But Irrelevant To Most Of Us

Posted: December 18th, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, style | Tags: , , , | No Comments »

BenShermanwomenswear

Plaid shirt purveyor Ben Sherman announced today that it would exit the womenswear market, which currently accounts for 10-15% of the company’s overall sales. (Ben Sherman is owned by Oxford Industries, a group of companies that also includes Tommy Bahama.)

From Ben Sherman’s perspective, this decision makes total sense. If its bread and butter is menswear and the company is struggling–net sales decreased by 30.7% to $47.8 million over the first half of 2009–why not focus on its strengths? While the Ben Sherman brand–established in the 1960s as a label for male Mods–may target a young demographic, there’s no doubt in my mind that while many guys proclaim B.S.’s shirt to be a favorite, very few 16-year-old girls are clamoring to score its snowboarder-meets preppy-meets hipster wares.

But here’s a not-so-bold prediction: I wouldn’t be surprised if, in January 2010, Oxford announces a licensing deal with a big Asian company to produce the womenswear, which means Ben Sherman for girls could yet again show up in a Macy’s–or Kohls–near you within the next six months. It would be easy money for Oxford and an easier launch for a mass retailer (since consumers are already familiar with the name). As we’ve learned over the past decade, a brand is never really dead.


Made In Italy On Madison: A Longer, Less Spastic Version Of Fashion’s Night Out

Posted: December 15th, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, fashion, luxury goods | Tags: , , | No Comments »

madeinItalyIf you’re planning on doing some holiday shopping in New York City anytime between now and December 22, consider taking a stroll down Madison Ave. Particularly between 57th and 78th Streets.

There, you’ll “experience” Made in Italy on Madison, a series of events sponsored by the Italian Trade Commission with support from Hearst and the City of New York. More than 30 stores–including Gucci, La Perla, Max Mara and Roberto Cavalli–are participating in the festivities, which include cocktail parties and shopping events ripe with Prosecco, tartine and even some discounts. For instance, upscale lingerie boutique La Perla will host a men’s shopping evening from 4-8pm on December 17, complete with rounds of cocktails and a gift with purchase. And on December 18, Furla will host a festive holiday party from 5-8pm.

While Fashion’s Night Out was a bit of a cluster f*ck for many attendees, I can almost guarantee that you’ll enjoy yourself while visiting these boutiques. You probably won’t see many celebrities–and definitely not Anna Wintour–but you may buy a thing or two. Which is precisely the point.


Ask An Expert: Why Is It So Hard To Find A Pair Of Jeans That Fit? (And More…)

Posted: December 14th, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, denim, men's fashion, shopping | Tags: , , , , , , | 1 Comment »

Denim

Jillian Smith is a bit of a Renaissance woman. A graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology, she began her career assisting famed fashion historian Valerie Steele. Since then, she’s worked as a writer for Paper magazine, dabbling in styling along the way. But her biggest role has been as a marketing and public relations consultant for W Hotels, Cotton Incorporated and a gazillion fantastic fashion brands, including Elise Overland, Y3 and Jen Kao.

I’ve been working with Jillian for a few years now, and I have to say, she’s one of the best publicists I know. That probably has to do with the fact that she’s also a writer and a reporter. But it’s mostly because she knows what she’s talking about. Especially when it comes to jeans.

Here, Jillian–as official as a “denim expert” can get–offers us peek inside this every-growing industry.

The Fashion Beat: How did you become a denim expert?
Jillian Smith: Completely by accident! I learned a lot about the technical and manufacturing side while working for Cotton Incorporated. While there I created a blog, DenimHunt.com, and that’s when my knowledge of denim really flourished. When I left Cotton I continued to consult for a number of brands, ranging from Prps to Mavi. I now contribute to Denimology.com.

TFB: I feel like, in some ways, the naughties have been the decade of denim. What were some of the innovations or style introductions that really changed the game, in your opinion?
JS: Though [now it's] completely dated, the trend of excessive embellishment really helped drive up the price of premium denim. Even without embellishment, the price point has stayed quite high in comparison to “designer denim” of decades prior, simply because consumers became accustomed to paying a certain price for certain brands.

The Internet changed the denim game by making jeans accessible to consumers all over the globe. The Web has also kept consumers better informed about trends and, of course, what their favorite celebs were wearing. As gossip rags reached their peak, sites like JustJared and FabSugar began tracking what brands celebrities were endorsing, feeding into the desire to dress like a famous person. Now, personal style blogs are creating the trends (think Jane at Sea of Shoes or Jessica at WhatIWore). They’re the new celeb blog.

What’s more, accessibility has resulted in the availability of a larger variety of styles. In order to keep up with demand, brands are forced to produce not only their basics, but also innovative trend items like “jeggings.”

TFB: Are you surprised that the big denim brands of the early party of this decade–particularly 7 For All Mankind–are still ubiquitous?
JS:
What we’re seeing now, especially with the recession, is really the survival of the fittest. The brands that are doing well have a great core product that continues to garner new interest. Rock and Republic has done a great job of maintaining an identity while changing with the times (they’ve introduced a lower-priced line and created a more subtle logo.) Brands like True Religion and Chip and Pepper, while still around, have not adapted to the current retail climate as well as their competitors from the early ’00s. It’s almost like they held onto their identity too closely and did not allow for modifications in branding or styles.

TFB: Personally, I kind of feel like the “I can’t find jeans that fit me” complaint to be a little unbelievable. No matter what size I’ve been I have always been able to find a flattering pair. Why do you think most find it so hard to find jeans that fit?
JS: It has nothing to do with product selection. Rather, most people get frustrated because of expectations of what the jeans will make them look like. Denim brands rely very heavily on marketing, more so than a runway designer who can create an entire mood through a full collection and presentation. Denim brands have to use a particular model and celebrity placement to really communicate what type of woman would be seen in their products. Naturally every woman wants to be 5′11″ and a size 26 or Angelina Jolie, but buying the brand of jeans she wears is not going to make you look like her.

The key to finding the right fit is analyzing your body type. Someone with heavy hips will have a hard time finding any skinny jeans to flatter them, but if they try something like a straight leg cut, they’ll have much better results while still achieving a slim leg silhouette. It’s all about balancing the body. It works with rise length as well–a long torso should try a higher rise to balance out where the body is proportioned by the eye.

The other thing: don’t be afraid of wearing a different size than you’re accustomed to. Again, with everyone wanting to be as thin as possible, women are often discouraged when they think they’re one size and find they’re actually something completely different. The secret: it’s not you! Every brand is different, every style is different, and even every wash and fabrication is different. Always try on a size smaller and larger than you think you are. It’s surprising what actually ends up being the most flattering.

TFB: I know that you consult for a lot of denim companies, but can you name some brands that just continually blow you away? What’s so great about them?
JS: I’m always impressed with Levi’s. They are certainly THE heritage brand, but they do so well at offering products in every price range, for every size, for every age and gender while still maintaining a brand identity. They also do a great job at taking a few risks every season. They had a wonderful plaid for FW09 that really made a nice addition to the line, not to mention their amazing collaborations with people like Robert Geller, Shepard Fairery/OBEY and Damien Hirst.

192 Doves, though a smaller, lesser known brand, has continued to impress me with their ability to adapt with every product run. They really listen to their consumer and if they find the sizing is skewing too large or too small, they really take that into account and change that for future runs. They also offer unique jeans without flashy distressing or applique. [Editor's note: I really like this line, too.]

J Brand has also done a really wonderful job at maintaining an identity and offering more styles as their customer base increases. I really see them as the next Seven because of their emphasis on cut and fit rather than gimmicky embellishment or distressing.

TFB: If someone wants to pay $50 bucks or less for denim, where should they go?
JS: If you’re in New York City, the must stop for jeans is Trash & Vaudeville. As much as I love everyone I work with, you’ll see me at least a four times a week in their trademark skinnies, favored by people like the Ramones, Iggy Pop, and even featured in the pages of Vogue. Plus, you get the added bonus of chatting with my biggest crush, Jimmy Webb. He’s an absolute legend with an incredible collection of stories to share. Best part, they retail at about $50 and come in every color and pattern under the sun. Better yet, you can always catch major deals on the sales racks in the back.

For those not in New York, of course Levi’s. Duh. But surprisingly there’s a wonderful selection on sites like Alloy and Delia’s, which are typically seen as shops for teens and tweens. However, they offer a large variety of styles in a HUGE range of sizes. Alloy for example has inseams ranging from 30″-37″ starting at $30. [Another ed. note: I agree, again!]

If it’s premium denim at a bargain price that you’re after, watch sites like Gilt and ShopBop for sales. It’s not unheard of to find all the top brands in the $50 range.

TFB: This one’s from my boyfriend: “I find button flies uncomfortable and a pain in the ass. Is there a technological reason for button flies still existing? Or is just that some people prefer the look?”
JS: It no longer has a function; it’s just a different style. I think it looks great on women in a cut off denim short. On men, the classic 501 with a button fly maintains a certain Springsteen-cool.

TFB: So many denim brands–Joe’s, True Religion–have reported that sales of men’s jeans continue to increase year-over-year-by double digits, even during the recession. Why do you think that is?
JS:
Men’s denim is a wonderful example of keeping it simple. In general there are just a few men’s styles per brand, and the styles offered are much more basic. There might be a few variations on washes, but the cuts don’t really deviate from slim, boot-cut, and full-leg. This keeps manufacturing costs down. (Less design, less complicated patterns, etc.) Men also shop a lot differently than women. They’re not looking for a hot trend jean to wear out with friends. They’re looking for a flattering cut and a wash they like. When they find that, they’ll come back year after year and buy five of the same exact jeans because they know they fit and they know they’ll like them. For instance, I could go buy my dad a pair of jeans today and I know it’ll be exactly what he loves and in the right size. He’s been wearing the same Wrangler’s and Levi’s for 30 years.

TFB: What do you see as the “next big thing” in denim?
JS:
Simplicity. Cleaner, darker washes, less distressing, a cleaner back pocket design. Look for more gray tones in the washes.  I think we’ll also see a lot more innovation happen in eco-friendly denim. It’s about more than just organic cottons; the industry has been working hard to cut waste in product, packaging and even dying. We’ll also see denim used in more nontraditional ways, especially combined with leather. Rick Owens FW08 was indicative of where designers will be headed. Alexander Wang also showed this in a denim jacket with leather sleeves for Spring 2009. It’s been seen on everyone from Rihanna to Lindsay Lohan. Elise Overland advanced this trend further for spring 2010 by taking her trademark leathers and piecing them together with denim to create a leather-patched jean.

Got a question about the fashion or retail industry that you’d like answered? Email me on lauren@tfbeat.com.


Are Luxury Retailers Doing Better Than Assumed This Holiday Season?

Posted: December 14th, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, luxury goods, shopping | Tags: , , , , , , | No Comments »

luxuryretail

Listening in on Neiman Marcus Group CEO Burt Tansky’s analyst conference call on December 9, one couldn’t help feeling depressed. Tansky, who oversees upscale department stores Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, said that the luxury sector’s “challenging retail environment” was likely to go on for “an extended period of time.”

In the company’s most recent quarter–ending October 31, 2009–it saw year-over-year sales decline by 11.9% (to $868.9 million) and y-o-y profits shrink by 34%. In November, y-o-y comparable store sales decreased by 9.7%.

Yet if data from online personal finance service Mint.com is any indication, sales during the holiday season should be okay. Mint tracked spending per user at four retailers over the last year, and you can see that there’s been a significant increase. Definitely not as good as during the boom years, but okay. Especially for Nordstrom, which began providing online shipping to 30 different countries last month.

While it’s a little disconcerting that Banana Republic is included in the luxury mix, Mint does have access to thousands upon thousands of credit card and bank accounts, so it’s safe to say that these numbers are pretty accurate. Maybe there’s hope for the luxury retailer after all.


Target To-Go: (Possibly) Coming To A City Near You!

Posted: December 10th, 2009 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: Retail, discount shopping, fashion, shopping | Tags: , , | No Comments »

Taarget-To-GOTarget To-Go–the big box’s 2010 incarnation of the now-ubiquitous holiday pop-up shop–opens its doors in New York, San Francisco and Washington D.C. tomorrow, December 11 at 10am, locking them shut on Sunday, December 13 at 8pm. Each city’s dwellers (and visitors) will get a chance to shop the Rodarte for Target line one week before it hits stores. And they’ll also get to sift through an edited selection of Target’s top offerings for the holidays, including Nintendo’s Wii Fit Plus, gift sets from Soap and Glory and toys like Nerf’s Dart Tag. Gifts will be wrapped in special holiday paper created for Target by interior designer Marcel Wanders.

And in the spirit of the season, Target will place 500 “over-sized and easy-to-identify” gift tags across each of the three cities. If you find a gift tag, return it to the Target To-Go location and you’ll receive a gift card for $10-$500. Each time a ticket is returned to Target, the company will donate $500 to The Salvation Army.

Sure, that all sounds great–especially the idea of shopping the Rodarte for Target collection just in time for the holiday parties I’m attending this week and next–but what I’m really impressed by is Target’s determination to reach beyond to the confines of New York City this time around.

While those of us who live in the area are lucky enough to enjoy the slew of pop-up shops, sample sales (many better than what’s offered online) and special events held in New York everyday, that’s not the case in most other U.S. metros. Target, by any stretch of the imagination, isn’t a New York-centric brand. While it’s smart to attract new customers this time of year, its core customer should be rewarded as well. That’s why To-Go shops in SF and D.C. make me so happy–they’re more inclusive while remaining exclusive. Here’s hoping Target brings this concept to even more cities next year.

P.S., here are the addresses for the three locations:

  • New York City: Gansevoort and Washington Streets, at the High Line entrance
  • San Francisco: Mint Plaza, 5th Street between Market and Mission Streets
  • Washington, D.C.: M Street NW and Wisconsin Avenue NW in Georgetown