Richemont/Prada Deal Rumor: Might Not Be True, But Let’s Hope It Is
Posted: January 5th, 2010 | Author: Lauren Sherman | Filed under: fashion, fashion acquisitions, luxury goods | Tags: Alaia, Chloe, Mui Mui, Muiccia Prada, Patrizio Bertelli, Prada, Richemont | No Comments »
Execs at Prada have vehemently denied the NY Post report that luxury goods conglomerate Richemont might scoop up a 30% stake in the company, which has amassed $1.7 billion in debt after failed acquisitions of Jil Sander (now owned by private equity firm Change Capital Partners) Helmut Lang (now owned by Link Theory Holdings) and others over the last two decades. I–and my sources–are not so sure that the report is true, but I’m also not going so far as to say that I think it’s “silly,” as an anonymous person did in WWD this morning. They’ve most certainly talked to Richemont over the past six months.
Why? Because they’ve had to. The fact is, Prada is in some deep sh*t and they need a trustworthy company with lots of money to help pull them out. While designer Miuccia Prada remained a critical favorite over the last decade, her husband–CEO Patrizio Bertelli–is seen by industry insiders as somewhat of a piranha. Along with the bad business decisions Bertelli’s made–numerous attempts at an IPO, poorly executed acquisitions and increasing the price point of the Mui Mui diffusion line, thus losing the entry-level luxury consumer as a customer–the label has also gotten flack for its diminished quality and questionable labor practices (best illustrated in Dana Thomas’ 2007 investigation Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster).
Do I think Richemont is the right conglomerate to pull Prada out of the red? Maybe. Like the Post says, it’s marquee brands are jewelry and watch makers, including Cartier, IWC and Van Cleef and Arpels.
However, Richemont also owns well-regarded and popular fashion labels Chloe and Alaia, which Prada would fit well with. However, as much as Prada could use the added infrastructure sure to be provided by Richemont, in the end it will be a private investor that saves the company. I just can’t see Bertelli giving up that much control, unless there’s some sort of hostile takeover.
